Right Now with Riyaadh Ismail
Designer, upcycler, stylist and creative director Riyaadh Ismail recently spent a month in Amsterdam as the winner of the BubblegumX-created initiative in partnership Daily Paper’s International Fashion Exchange Program. Through motivation, dedication, hard work and a willingness to learn from others and his surroundings, he has quickly made a name for himself. Patrick Visser for Shelflife caught up with him to see what he learned and what he’s up to right now.
Where in the world are you right now?
Physically I'm back home, Bosmont Johannesburg. Mentally, I'm running towards my dream.
What are you wearing right now?
I’m wearing my favourite statement piece, my Issey Miyake 1st edition pleated pants, paired with the first item I hunted for in Amsterdam, a Nike x Stussy LS mock neck. Brought together with ACG mountain fly sneakers and a very special Daily Paper jacket.
Who or what inspires you right now?
The environment, the energy and the priceless knowledge I gained from The Daily Paper internship I was granted. I’ve never known how to celebrate my "victories" and "achievements" because I am in constant fear that they can be taken away in an instant. However, upon arriving at DP headquarters, and working so closely with their design team, I was finally able to acknowledge how far I've come and that my dreams are valid. So much so that it’s driving me to never doubt myself again. Apart from that, my biggest motivation stems from the pure belief my amazing girlfriend has in me and my dreams. Her belief in me drives me to believe in myself and that is something no-one has ever given me. I nearly quit on my dreams before she blindly believed in me. I owe her anything.
What are you reading, watching or listening to right now?
I am currently listening to what I always listen to – J Cole, Nasty C and Blxckie. My girlfriend and I have started collecting fashion books and reading for free at Exclusive Books. I’m currently reading Cartier and Islamic art: In search of modernity. I’m also binge-watching the Netflix special on Jeffrey Dahmer.
Congratulations on winning Bubblegum's initiative with Daily Paper. Can you tell us about the process of being part of this competition and what it’s meant to you?
It has meant everything, the knowledge I learnt is priceless, it changed my life.
However the process was so stressful, I saw the competition a day before applications closed and my girlfriend cried because she said she knew I'd win. A couple of weeks went by and Bubblegum Club announced the top 10. The minute I saw, I ran to go pray. I was so overwhelmed with gratitude. The public then voted for the top 5, and when I made it, the excitement began to kick in. We were then interviewed by Bubblegum Club and Carly, and Isaac from Daily Paper. I was so nervous and spoke nonstop, I felt like I spoke too much. A couple of days later, I got an email saying I had won.
You began by upcycling garments and later started creating small capsules. Can you tell us what drew you to upcycling and what it has taught you?
I was drawn to upcycling because it was something I admired for a long time from people like Nicole Mclaughlin and Mini Swoosh. The fact that it could be done without any formal fashion background drew me to it. It taught me that if I really want to do something, I can do it with whatever is around me, I don't need funding or material, or even a sewing machine. The biggest thing it taught me is that fashion is an art, because anything can become a form of fashion.
You’ve worked with Pearl Thusi, AKA, Costa Titch, Kwesta and more. What have you learned from the experience of working with such high-profile figures?
It’s a high-pressure industry, and time is of the essence. So trust your instincts and back your ability regardless of the client. To give you an idea, I did costume design for Pearl Thusi's halloween outfit in less than a day. I was anxious about whether the design would fit well or if she was going to like and feel comfortable in it. Luckily she loved it.
Can you tell us a bit more about your brainchild, Riyaadh’s Yaad?
After a number of capsule collections and individual items in January of 2021, I founded my label, Riyaadhs Yaad. The name is a play on words of my childhood nickname, "Yaad" in the form of Yaad being a misspelt version of a yard. This stems from how the majority of luxury brands refer to themselves as houses. Due to my unconventional route into fashion and without any formal education, my “house” is a “yard”, built from what I have learnt from the street and from the ground up as opposed to the concrete foundation of formal education. Yaad is a luxury streetwear label that uses finely crafted garments to tell disregarded stories of South African culture to the world.
What projects are you busy with right now and what’s next?
I'm currently setting out my 1,5 and 10-year plan, as I take-in all the information I learnt from my internship at Daily Paper ensuring I make the most of it in implementation. I’m also planning the rollout of my SS23 collection release before the end of this year.
What is your favourite piece of clothing you've made and why?
This will probably sound weird, but I always find the flaws in my previous work and see how it could have been better. However, it has to be the Pamphlet pants from my AW22 collection, because my idols Thebe Magugu and Trevor Stuurman loved them immediately. I always say that the opinion of people whose work inspires my own means more to me than any amount of sales.
If you could work with any brand or individual who would it be and why?
If you asked me a year ago, I would have been cliché and said Nike. However, as of today, Thebe Magugu. The reason being that he’s breaking down doors for people like me. He’s constantly proving that our culture, our stories, and our work are capable of being the best in the world. He’s showing me that my dreams are valid, and possible. He is a national treasure in my eyes. I would want to work with him purely to pick his brain and learn.
