The History of Nike's CO.JP Program
With the Air Jordan 1 CO.JP on the horizon, it might be worthwhile taking a look back at how the Japan Program got to the top of every sneakerhead's wishlist. Many might not know that CO.JP or Concept Japan started back in the early 2000s when Nike was expanding its global reach. Japan already had a love for Nike, with the scene donning Dunks long before SB was a thing. It was a hotbed for sneaker culture and Nike knew this.
The Swoosh started releasing Japan-exclusive that made the rest of the world salivate. Japan-only releases became the ‘if you know, you know’ thing, with no Sneaker News or similar sites to educate the masses. It was for the real sneakerheads.
Those wanting anything CO.JP had to be really committed, hooked up (or both), and get really creative in getting their pairs. Even Ronnie Fieg of Kith was obsessed. “I was doing everything possible from my bedroom in Queens to get my hands on them,” said Fieg via Instagram. “Hunting online, trying to make connections overseas, etc. To this day, the CO.JP AF1s are some of my favourite ever.” But without any more delay, let's get into the OG Concept Japan releases spanning 1999 to 2017.
Nike Dunk 'Ultraman' and 'Reverse Ultraman'
First up is the Nike Dunk Low ‘Ultraman' and ‘Reverse Ultraman’ released in 1999. Inspired by the popular Japanese sci-fi hero from the 1960s, each pair references the show's red and grey suits. With Nike Dunk’s relaunch in 1998, these were the colourways used to expand the Dunk’s global exposure and cause a revival. The Ultraman dunk is very similar to the red and grey Dunk from the “Be True to Your School” collection and is often confused, but technically it is the grey pairs with a grey swoosh and red accents that are the true ‘Ultraman’. No doubt these are extremely rare today with them only dropping in Japan over 20 years ago.
Nike Air Force 1 'Linen'
Next up is a pair you’ve probably seen before - the iconic Nike Air Force 1 ‘Linen’ released in 2001. It features a tan linen combo on a premium leather upper, atop a white midsole, with pastel pink accents on the outsole and Swoosh. You’ve probably seen this colourway before because Ronnie Fieg officially brought back the release in 2016 during Art Basel in Miami. “The Linen is my favorite shoe, period.” he told Nike in 2016.
Nike Dunk 'Ugly Duckling Pack'
Before Nike SB, there was the Pro B line of Dunks. They featured fat laces and durable materials in an effort to attract the skateboard demographic, and the Dunk’s transformation from basketball shoe to skater shoe was being seen already. The ‘Ugly Duckling Pack’ was released in 2001 with the ‘Plum,’ ‘Veneer’ and ‘Ceramic’ colourways. Most notably, the Plum colourway was the extremely popular and fans were even treated to a re-release this year in 2020. Those lucky to get a W that is…
Nike Air Force 1 (B Series)
The next 3 Air Force 1s were released in Japan in 2001 as part of the Air Force 1 B Series. It started with the ‘Wheat’ colourway that boasted the smooth, buttery tones of a Timberland boot. While New York City culture may have influenced the Japanese on this release, it was NYC who had to bend over backwards to get their hands on this drop.
Following this pair was the ‘3M Snake’ version with a snakeskin Swoosh front and center, complemented by a black leather upper and toe box with reflective silver 3M overlays. Last of the three, the Air Force 1 ‘Hong Kong’ also released in 2001 but saw a re-release in 2018. This pair was different in that it had a stitched hollow Swoosh, marking a change from most Air Force 1 models at the time. It also featured burgundy accents in the collar and laces for an elevated aesthetic.
Nike Dunk 'Viotech'
The Nike Dunk ‘Viotech’ (which re-released in 2019 at Shelflife) originally dropped in 2002 under the CO.JP banner. Combing nearly every colour of the rainbow, the Viotech remains one of the most popular CO.JP drops ever. The colourway was also applied to the Air Max 90 in 2019.
Nike Dunk 'Samba'
Another Dunk! This time the ‘Samba’ also has a re-release set for 2020 so only time will tell if SA gets some love… But the original dropped in 2001 with it being named after the Pantone shade of red on its upper. The Pro B Line Dunk also features a Hyper Blue leather upper, a textured Samba Red Swoosh and Silver overlays.
Nike Air Force 1 'Atmos' and Nike Dunk 'Atmos Mismatched'
Now you know we can’t talk Nike and Japan without talking atmos. Released in 2001, the Air Force 1 ‘Atmos’ is considered by many as the best colourway for the silhouette. It sported a simple grey and blue colourway that you could only get your hands on in Japan. Paying homepage to this amazing release in 2017, atmos and Nike released the ‘Mismatched’ Dunk version of the classic Air Force 1. The sneaker featured an inverted colourway on each shoe, with the ‘CO.JP’ graphic printed on the insole. It also released alongside a capsule collection of apparel featuring vintage Dunk ads.
Nike Dunk 'What The'
Here is the ‘What The’ Dunk - not to be confused with the crazy Nike SB version seen on Travis Scott. Released in 2017, this pair also paid homage to the era of CO.JP Dunks with each panel coming form one of the 6 the original ‘Be True to Your School’ Nike Dunk collection from 1985.
Air Jordan 1 Retro High OG 'Toyko'
Last and definitely not least - the iconic Air Jordan 1 CO.JP dropping next Saturday at Shelflife! Originally released in 2001 with only 2001 pairs ever produced, this Jordan 1 became one of the hardest pairs to get your hands on (for Westerners or not.) Nike prioritised smaller sizes for this release too, making it even harder to get your perfect pair.
This month's re-release remains true to the original in nearly every way. It features the same grey nubuck upper and metallic silver accents. This time around, the inner tongue tag features a graphic with the years 2001 and 2020 stitched onto it. There is also a limited version releasing exclusively in Japan which comes with a briefcase, which mirrors the suitcase packaging paired with the original 2001 release.
Credit: Grailed.com